Why Enclosure Size Matters

A bearded dragon’s enclosure must be large enough to:
✔ Provide adequate mobility both horizontally and vertically
✔ Allow for freedom of choice in movement and behavior
✔ Facilitate a proper temperature gradient

From my observations, this cannot be achieved in an enclosure smaller than 3x the lizard’s total length and at least 24” (60cm) tall.

Recommended Minimum Enclosure Size

General Guidelines

🔹 Bearded dragons typically reach 19-23” (48-58cm) in total length (The Bearded Dragon Manual, Vosjoli et al., 2001).
🔹 The minimum recommended size for a single adult is:
6’L x 2’W x 2’H (1.8m x 0.6m x 0.6m)
🔹 If using alternative dimensions, the enclosure’s internal volume should be no less than 24 cubic feet.
🔹 Since climbing is a natural behavior, a setup with at least 3’ (0.9m) of usable vertical space is ideal.

💡 Rule of thumb: Bigger is always better—as long as the space is used effectively!

Why a Larger Enclosure?

Many older recommendations suggest smaller enclosures, but standards have evolved:

Past StandardUpdated StandardCurrent Best Practice

36”L x 18”W x 18”H48”L x 24”W x 24”H6’L x 2’W x 2’H (or larger!)

🐉 What about smaller dragons?
Some bearded dragons stay under 18” (~45cm) in total length. For these individuals, a 4’x2’x2’ enclosure is acceptable.

International Best Practices

• Federation of British Herpetologists (2022):
  📏 6’L x 3’W x 3’H (based on SVL ratio)

• German Society for Herpetology and Terrariums:
  📏 5’L x 4’W x 3’H (based on SVL ratio)

ReptiFiles’ 6’x2’x2’ recommendation is a compromise aimed at gradually improving the U.S. standard of care. As care practices improve, this guideline will be updated again.

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Bearded Dragon Lighting & UVB Guide

UVB Replacement Schedule

UVB bulbs must be replaced regularly to maintain proper function. Just because a bulb is still emitting visible light does not mean it’s still producing UVB!

When to Replace Your UVB Bulb:

📌 Mercury Vapor Bulbs — Every 6-12 months (check manufacturer guidelines)
📌 T8 Fluorescent Bulbs — Every 6 months
📌 T5 Fluorescent Bulbs — Every 12 months

For accurate UVB monitoring, consider using a Solarmeter 6.5. This device helps track the UV Index (UVI) within the enclosure, ensuring your dragon gets the right amount of UVB exposure.

Optimal UVI for Bearded Dragons:

• 0.0 - 4.0 to 6.0 (gradient from cool area to basking zone)

• Up to 7.0 tolerated by most normally pigmented dragons

• Lower UVI (≤ 3.0) recommended for sensitive morphs (hypomelanistic, translucent, silkback)

📌 For a visual guide to UVI gradients, refer to Arcadia’s Lighting Guide for Full Sun Baskers.

Full-Spectrum Daylight Lighting

Bearded dragons are “sun worshippers” 🦎☀ and depend on bright white light for:
✔ Activity & energy levels
✔ Appetite stimulation
✔ Overall well-being

💡 Recommended Brightness: ~6500K illumination
✅ Covers at least 75-100% of the enclosure length (multiple lamps may be required).

Recommended Full-Spectrum Lights:

💡 Arcadia JungleDawn LED Bar
💡 Bio Dude Glow & Grow LED

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Bearded Dragon Heating & Humidity Guide

Why Heat is Essential

Bearded dragons, like all reptiles, need heat for:
✔ Proper digestion
✔ A strong immune system
✔ Overall health & activity

As basking lizards, they rely on overhead heat sources to regulate their body temperature, mimicking the sun.

Temperature Gradient

Bearded dragons must have a temperature gradient in their enclosure to thermoregulate properly.

ZoneSurface Temperature

🌞 Basking Area108-113°F (42-45°C)

🌤 Cool Side77-85°F (25-29°C)

🌡 Air Temperature Gradient72-99°F (22-37°C)

🌙 Nighttime55-75°F (12-24°C)

📌 Basking temperatures are based on scientific research by Judish Badham (1971) and Dr. Jonathan Howard. Their studies found that bearded dragons naturally regulate their core body temperature to ~97.3°F (36.3°C) by basking at 108-113°F.

✅ Basking surface should not exceed 122°F (50°C) to avoid overheating the enclosure.

Choosing a Basking Surface

🪨 Best options: Stone (preferred) or sturdy basking branches
❌ Avoid: Plastic, mesh, or fabric surfaces, as they do not retain heat well.

Is It Safe for Bearded Dragons to Have Cold Nights?

Yes! Cool nighttime temperatures (as low as 50°F) are safe if daytime temps are correct.

✔ Encourages morning basking → leads to a more active dragon
✔ Supports a healthy metabolism and immune system

⚠ BUT: If the daytime temps are too low, cool nights may cause brumation or illness.

Best Heat Bulbs for Bearded Dragons

Use high-wattage halogen bulbs in a dome heat lamp with a ceramic socket to safely achieve the right basking temperatures.

🔥 Recommended Halogen Bulbs:
✅ Reptile Systems Infrared Gold Unit, 200W
✅ Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp
✅ Zoo Med Repti Tuff Splashproof Halogen Lamp

💡 Wattage Guide:

• 90-100W is usually enough for 4’x2’x4′ or 6’x2’x2′ enclosures.

• Need it hotter? Raise the basking surface.

• Too hot? Lower the basking surface or use a lower-wattage bulb.

📌 Reptile Systems Infrared Gold Unit is an exception — it produces high Infrared-A output and has a deep red color (not the same as a typical "red bulb").

Ambient Heating for Large Enclosures

If your basking bulbs don’t provide enough heat for the entire enclosure, add secondary heat sources.

🔥 Best Lightless Heating Options:
✅ Sweeter Heater Radiant Heat Panel
✅ Arcadia Deep Heat Projector
✅ Zoo Med ReptiCare Infrared Heat Projector
✅ Ceramic Heat Emitter

💡 For enclosures taller than 3', consider installing a radiant heat panel under a ledge halfway down to ensure even heat distribution.

⚙ Temperature Control:

• Radiant heat panels & heat projectors → Use a dimming thermostat.

• Ceramic heat emitters → Use an on/off thermostat.

Troubleshooting Short-Lived Bulbs

💡 If your bulbs burn out too quickly, check these:

✔ Wash hands before installation (skin oils can shorten lifespan).
✔ Check the lamp's rating (must match the bulb wattage & have a ceramic socket).
✔ Plug into a surge protector (prevents burnout from power fluctuations).
✔ Has the lamp fallen recently? (filaments are fragile & break easily).
✔ Check the warranty (some bulbs, like Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot, have a 3-month warranty).

Measuring Temperature Correctly

To ensure the proper temperature gradient, you need both:

📌 1. Infrared Temp Gun (e.g., Etekcity Lasergrip 774)

• Measures surface temperatures accurately

• Ensure the basking spot covers the full body of your dragon

📌 2. Probe Digital Thermometer (e.g., Zoo Med Digital Combo Thermometer)

• Tracks air temperature in the basking & cool zones

💡 Tip: Let heat sources run for at least 3 hours before taking temperature readings.

Humidity Guide

Does Your Bearded Dragon Need Humidity?

Yes! Even desert reptiles need some ambient humidity for:
✔ Healthy lungs 🫁
✔ Proper skin & scale hydration 🦎
✔ Preventing dehydration 💦

✅ Ideal Humidity Range: 30-60%

• 🌡 Higher in cool areas

• 🔥 Lower near basking zones (as low as 10%)

📌 Use a digital hygrometer (e.g., Zoo Med Digital Combo Thermometer and Humidity Gauge) to monitor humidity levels.

Humidity Myths & Facts

❌ Myth: Bearded dragons need very low humidity at all times.
✅ Fact: Central Australia is not completely dry—it has seasonal humidity changes.

📌 Occasional humidity spikes (from watering plants, rainy weather, or nighttime) are natural & safe.

Final Tips for Managing Heat & Humidity

✔ Adjust heat sources to create a proper gradient.
✔ Use a temp gun & digital thermometer to monitor temperatures.
✔ Maintain humidity between 30-60% (avoid excessive dryness or wetness).
✔ Check for environmental factors affecting your setup (room temp, ventilation, substrate moisture, etc.).

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Bearded Dragon Enclosure Decorations

Want to make your bearded dragon’s home more comfortable and interesting? Here are some great decoration ideas:

Must-Have Items:

✅ Basking Rock/Log – Helps your dragon warm up and climb for exercise. Cork bark logs work great!
✅ Hide/Burrow/Cave – A safe spot for your dragon to rest, escape heat, or brumate (a reptile version of hibernation).

Other Fun & Functional Additions:

🦴 Bones – Clean, sterilized cow bones can make a cool, natural decoration.
🪨 Flagstone – A rough-textured stone that helps keep claws trimmed and absorbs heat for basking.
🌱 Live Plants – A great way to add greenery! Safe plants include aloe, jade, and spineless prickly pear cactus. Avoid fake plants since your dragon might try to eat them.

Creative Touches:

🎭 Foam Decorations – Make your own or buy realistic lightweight structures.
🖼 Backgrounds – Hide ugly wires and glass walls with printed or 3D backgrounds.

What About Hammocks?

🚫 Woven hammocks are unsafe – Your dragon’s nails or limbs can get stuck, leading to injuries.
✅ Fabric hammocks (with no holes) are safer, but must be cleaned regularly to prevent bacteria buildup.

How to Clean Decorations:

🔥 Oven Method – Bake wood, stones, or bones at 200-250°F for 30 minutes to kill germs. (Soak wood first to prevent fires!)
🧼 Disinfectant Soak – Use a reptile-safe cleaner (like Clean Break or F10SC) to sanitize secondhand decorations.

With the right decorations, your bearded dragon will have a safe, fun, and natural-looking home! 🦎

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Feeding: 

Based on Dr. Jonathan Howard’s research, here’s how to properly feed your bearded dragon at different life stages:

🐣 Hatchlings (0-3 months)

• Insects: As many as they’ll eat, once a day

• Vegetables: Daily, unlimited amount

• Calcium powder: On all insects & salads

• Multivitamin: On salads 2x/week

🦎 Juveniles (<12”/25cm long)

• Insects: 5-6 head-sized portions daily

• Vegetables: Daily (3x the volume of insects)

• Calcium powder: On all insects & salads

• Multivitamin: On salads 2x/week

🦖 Subadults & Adults (>12”/25cm long)

• Insects: 3-4 head-sized portions, 2x/week

• Vegetables: 3x/week (portion = head size)

• Calcium powder: On all insects & salads

• Multivitamin: On salads 1x/week

🐉 Gravid (Pregnant) Females

• Insects: 4-5 head-sized portions, 2x/week

• Vegetables: 3x/week (portion = head size)

• Calcium powder: On all insects & salads

• Multivitamin: On salads 2x/week

Diet Breakdown by Age (% Protein in Diet)

• Hatchlings: 60-80% protein

• Juveniles: 60% protein

• Adults: 15-30% protein (males may need less)

👉 Why less protein as they age?

• Older dragons grow slower and don’t need as many bugs

• Too much protein can cause gout & obesity, common issues in pet dragons

❗ If your dragon won’t eat greens, their diet is 100% high-protein, which is dangerous. Check out tips for getting them to eat greens in my article: Help! My Bearded Dragon Won’t Eat Greens!

🚨 Overfeeding & over-supplementing can be deadly! Read about the dangers of Yolk Coelomitis to learn more

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Bearded Dragon Vegetable Guide 🥦🐉

Even baby bearded dragons should be offered fresh veggies daily! They might not eat much at first, but getting them used to vegetables early makes the transition to an adult diet easier.

A variety of vegetables is key to keeping your dragon healthy and strong.

🥬 Staple Greens (Feed Daily)

• Arugula (Rocket)

• Bok choy

• Cactus pads

• Collard greens

• Endive (Chicory)

• Escarole

• Kale*

• Mustard greens

• Mustard cress

• Pea shoots

• Spring mix

• Turnip greens

• Watercress

📝 Kale is often mistaken as unhealthy due to oxalates, but studies show it’s actually safe to feed regularly!

🌿 Safe Wild Plants & Flowers

• Dandelion greens & flowers

• Clover (pesticide-free)

• Carnations

• Pansies

• Nasturtium

• Rose petals

🌱 Tip: If you’re unsure about wild plants, you can grow your own! Seed mixes from Arizona Tortoise Compound and ProRep work great.

🥕 Mixers (Feed Occasionally)

• Artichoke heart

• Asparagus

• Basil

• Beet leaves

• Bell pepper

• Carrot (grated raw)

• Cucumber (peeled)

• Fennel

• Lemon balm

• Mint leaves

• Parsley

• Radicchio

• Squash (raw)

• Sugar snap peas

• Swiss chard

• Thyme

• Yam (grated raw)

• Zucchini

🚨 DO NOT Feed (Toxic Foods!)

• Avocado

• Onion

• Mushrooms

🥗 Feeding Tips

✔ Cut veggies into bite-sized pieces for easy eating
✔ Slippery foods (like cucumber) might be hard to grab, so hand-feeding may help—but watch your fingers!